The smalltown of Coyoacan quickly became one of my favorite districts within Mexico City when I visited last month. It was charming with its street vendors and parks. It seemed quieter, lush and safer.
We went to Coyoacan to see Casa Azul (Blue House), Frida Kahlo’s parents’ home that she and Diego Rivera made their own. First, we explored the town and parks, where young people sat reading on benches in the warm air. We passed cafes and shops and I spotted a girl who looked like Frida herself, draped in layers of fabric and long dark hair rolled in buns on top of her head. “I could live here,” I actually said out loud.
We stopped for breakfast — I had chiliquiles potent with tomatillos . Afterward, we bought churros filled with chocolate and Bailey’s Irish Cream.
Soon, it was off to Frida’s house. There was really only one thing I knew I wanted to do in Mexico City, and it was visit Casa Azul. We walked there from the center or Coyoacan, through the old town lined with businesses I didn’t expect to see, like bookstores, more cafes and even a coffee bean roasting company. But as we walked through neighborhoods lined with green trees and food carts, we arrived at the house with that rich blue pigment no one can miss. We paid our admission — mine at least double the price of local’s admission — and entered into a lush courtyard, where I imagined Frida spent so much time painting and just existing.
I wanted so bad to take pictures of the art supplies and studio she and Diego shared, the clocks she painted (of time stopping, when Diego cheated on her) and of her body casts that are each covered in her paintings and sketches. But since they don’t allow photography, all I have are a couple of postcards and a photo of her room that holds her famous bed where she spent so much of her life.
I hope you enjoy these photos and a little glimpse into Coyoacan.